The Costa de la Luz (Coast of Light)

In Huelva Province, this coastal area extends from the Guadiana River, which separates Portugal from Spain at its western extreme, to the Guadalquivir River in the East and forms the western part of the Andalusían coastline facing the Atlantic. The sand is finer and a more golden colour than the neighbouring Costa del Sol.

The typical beaches here are more expansive and probably backed by sand dunes and pine trees. This part of the coast has not seen the high-rise hotel development of other areas. The temperatures are slightly milder and the Atlantic winds and waves are favoured by wind surfers and surfboarders alike.  Despite not being as scenically dramatic as its neighbour in Cadiz Province, this part of the Atlantic coastline boasts long, unspoilt sandy beaches backed by pine woods and sand dunes and many protected coastal reserves.   The beaches are not as windswept as the Cadiz section of the coast.

The shoreline is punctuated by small fishing ports and modern resorts popular with mainly Spanish visitors. These resorts are separated by marshes and river estuaries, making travelling rather circuitous. In July and August, these resorts are packed to bursting point. If you enjoy a lively atmosphere, this is the time to come but it's essential to book accommodation in advance. Outside of the summer months, the pace slows down completely.

With comparatively less visitors than other coastlines in Andalucía, Huelva's Costa de la Luz can still offer some seemingly virgin beaches where you can find a secluded spot even in summer. Try the Playa de Castilla, East of Matalascañas that runs alongside the Parque Nacional de la Coto de Donaña, a 25km-long stretch that is only accessible on foot.

Alternatively, there is the 22km-long beach, also part of the Playa de Castilla, which runs between Matalascañas and Mazagón, which is extensive enough to find a bit of solitude.

Just across the border from Portugal is Ayamonte, a fishing port that used to serve as a through-route to Portugal with its daily ferry to Vila Real de Santo Antonio across the Guadiana River. This has been superseded by the new suspension bridge that crosses the river just north of Ayamonte, but the town is still well worth a visit for its pleasant squares and pretty, narrow pedestrianised streets in the centre, along with its neighbouring beaches of Isla Canela. There are noticeably more foreign tourists here than in other resorts along Huelva's Costa de la Luz, probably due to its proximity to the Algarve.

Next along the coast is the popular resort and fishing port of Isla Cristina, surrounded by marshland and the Paraje Natural Marismas de Isla Cristina.

Further East is the beach at La Antilla and its neighbour, the tiny port of El Terrón. Here are fine views across the Piedras River estuary to the fishing village of El Rompido and the nature reserve, the Paraje Natural Marismas del Río Piedras y Flecha del Rompido.

Punta Umbría is the largest resort on the Costa de la Luz and the nearest to Huelva City. It has some magnificent beaches, great seafood restaurants and is on the edge of Paraje Natural Marismas del Odiel, an impressive wetland reserve.

To the West of Huelva City is the Barra de El Rompido, which you can reach from La Antilla.

Huelva City with its surrounding oil refineries and industry is a major blot on the landscape around the city. Some of the resorts are blighted by some insensitively designed buildings, but generally this coast has escaped some of the worst development seen along other coasts in Andalucía.

East of Huelva City is Mazagón, a low-level modern resort with some excellent beaches, including one backed by sandstone cliffs.

Further East is Matalascañas, which although more developed than Mazagón, has a good beach and is only a few kilometres from the entry point to the Parque Nacional de la Cota de Donaña.